City of Bats

17-Oct-23

I had no idea the coastal city of Valencia shared such a love for bats! The symbol of the bat is everywhere - on entry ways, drain covers, gargoyles, wine labels, and even the soccer team's logo. According to legend, during the Reconquista of the 13th century, King Aragon (James I) saw a bat in his field camp the night before a battle and he took it as a sign of good luck that foretold his victory over the Moors. If you don't believe in legends, it might be because there are tons of bats that live in the city. Either way, bats have since become the symbol of the city and hold a prominent place on the region's coat of arms. 

We took a walking tour around the old city, which was beautiful; but it really sucked at the end of the tour (~2pm) when practically the entire town shut down for siesta until 7pm! I can certainly appreciate a good nap but - as a tourist - it sucks to not have anything to do for the entire afternoon. With nothing else to do, we headed to the beach to dip our toes in the Mediterranean Sea and treated ourselves to the most delicious gelato yet on this trip!

Highlights from the tour:

Speaking of Christian kings, the old city wall used to have 12 gates guarding it. Most of the wall and 10 of the towers were torn down but 2 remain:

 

Torres de Serranos (14th century)

View from the top of Torres de Serranos 

Torres de Quart (15h century)

Outside, the Church of San Nicolás is easy to miss if it weren't for the massive line of tourists. While hidden off a side street, the unassuming entrance leads you into the most beautiful church we've seen on the trip! Built in the mid-13th century, it is one of the city's oldest churches. In the 15th century, the (in)famous Borja family had it remodeled in the Gothic style. It's currently famous for being the 'Spanish Sistine Chapel" thanks to the GORGEOUS 17th century Baroque ceiling frescoes, depicting the life & times of St. Nicolas (upon whom Santa is loosely based). Not an inch of the place was without lavish decoration!

Main Altar

Back of Nave (Jewish star in rose window was a nod to the Jewish craftsmen)

Amazing ceiling! Supposedly, the frescoes had been 'lost knowledge' until a 20th century restoration cleaned the thick layers of smoke and soot off the ceiling!

Close-up detail of St. Nicolas secretely dropping coins down the chimney of a poor family's home (hence, the origin of Santa bringing presents down the chiney).

The 15th century Gothic fortress-looking La Lonja was the former Silk Exchange, where merchants would come to set prices for their goods.  

The Trading Hall

Upper floor where contracts were worked out (original ceiling!)

Storage rooms below the Trading Hall (a small prison below that)

Central Market with beautiful iron works was built in the 1920s

Less ornate on the inside, the Valencia Cathedral appears to be understated until you learn that it houses some of the most precious (supposed) ancient relics in the Christian world and sits atop some of the cities most ancient ruins. 

Cathedral's North Façade

Chapel of Santo Tomas de Villanueva

Central Nave

Main Altar

Chapel of the Holy Chalice

Apparently, the Holy Grail (made of agate & later embellished in gold)has been here the whole time & none of the movies from my childhood seemed to know that!

Goya's "St. Francis Borgia Helping a Dying Impenitent" (aka exorcism!)

St Vincent's arm - a Spanish priest martyred by the Romans in 303 CE & Valencia's patron saint

Remains of Visigoth church and Moorish mosque upon which the cathedral was built - complete with human remains!

Exterior door of cathedral with close up of ax marks, used to sharpen the axes during the Spanish Inquisition when executions were held in the square in front of the church.